Oyster lovers are allowed to take their oysters cooked, despite what the toffs might think. This recipe came from Toofey’s, in Carlton, one of my favourite seafood joints back in the ’80s and ’90s. In 2001 I sold my restaurant in Domain Road to Toofey’s owner and chef, Michael Bacash. Since then it’s flourished as Bacash: it is, without question, Melbourne’s premium seafood restaurant. Michael was, and always will be, a fanatic on freshness and simplicity when it comes to cooking seafood.
One of the regular and remarkable—yet simple—dishes on his menu at Toofey’s was oysters, cooked with a blanket of spinach and cheese. For my cookbook, Simple Flavours (Text Media, 1991), I asked him for the recipe.